During July, I was kept very busy trying to catch up on some winter repotting that I had neglected for the past few years, particularly some natives. My lilly pillies in particular, of which I have several, really needed attention. Although I had basically kept up with trimming the tops, a couple of my larger specimens had not had a root trim since 2021! Far too long, really, but I seem to have got away with it, as they are both already recovering well. They have grown so much that both needed bigger pots. I was in luck, for once, and found the larger sized pots I needed in my pot shed. This is very rarely the case, it seems, and one often experiences the frustration of never, in spite of having quite a large pot collection, having just the one you need! My crabapples are also currently heaving a collective sigh of relief, as none of them had seen a re pot since 2020. Okay, an end to confession time…
Hopefully we’ll soon be getting some warmer days, although there are most likely some cold nights still to come. As I write this, we haven’t had any frosts where I live this winter, but that could change any day. For this reason, any newly trimmed or repotted trees need protection from the weather, particularly if fresh, soft new growth has started to appear. If any of your plants are showing signs of frost damage with burnt foliage, hold back on trimming it off until there is no chance of further frosts. The spoilt foliage, though unsightly, will help to protect the plant from any further damage. Once you remove the damage, the tree will revert to healthy new growth in spring.
Continue to keep a close eye on your watering, even though trees are generally not drying out quickly at the moment. We’ve had quite a few windy days lately, and that can dry trees out even faster than summer heat. August in Sydney is normally prone to cold, windy weather, so be aware that even in winter, wind may mean that you need to water your trees more frequently than you’d expect, to maintain moisture around their roots. Deciduous trees with bare branches are unable to signal their needs for water, and the signs of having been too dry in winter will only be evident when branches that have died back fail to shoot out in spring.
Be wary of those springlike days ahead, which will mean you need to check moisture levels daily. Deeper pots are likely to dry out more quickly at the surface (and in the top half or so) than shallow pots, due to the way that the ‘water table’ within each pot operates. The moisture drains out of deep pots much more quickly. For this reason, trees in cascade pots may need to be watered more frequently than even the same species in a shallow pot. Any trees you have repotted during July should be showing signs of recovery, and/ or new growth. With their recently reduced root mass, it’s particularly important not to let them dry out. Additionally, I normally water them with Seasol or a similar product once a week to aid their recovery, continuing to do so until I see new growth. Then it’s time to start fertilising as well.
If you have not already done so, repotting of deciduous and flowering trees should happen now, as buds are already beginning to swell. Once the buds have burst open, you will need to delay repotting until next year. Remember too, that trident maples should be repotted every year, if possible, as they have very vigorous root systems, unlike many other maple species. By the end of August ,elms and maples which can shoot early, may need their first pruning back to one or two sets of leaves. Keep pruning any deciduous trees where any branches extend beyond the perimeter of the desired silhouette.
We can also begin to repot some evergreen trees such as privet, pyracantha, buxus, olive and cotoneaster. Australian natives can also be done at this time of year, but be careful, as some are starting to put on a growth spurt already. July is often a safer time for repotting them (from my own experience). As with any other species, the ideal time to repot natives is just as the buds of new growth are starting to swell.
Whether you are repotting existing bonsai or creating new ones, it’s important to balance what you remove from the roots (percentage wise) with the foliage you remove from the top. You can get away with removing a little more foliage than roots, but the reverse does not work so well. The tree must always have sufficient roots in place to support the foliage on the top with water and also for stability. If your trees are a bit unstable in their containers after repotting, it’s a good idea to wire them in place.
August is the best time to repot your pines. Remember that weak branches or those that you want to extend should not be cut back at this time. You can cut back elongated branches and remove unwanted branches on more vigorous parts of the tree, to balance any roots you remove during repotting. If you are well ahead with repotting you can also root prune junipers, or wait with these until September.
August is the best time to do aerial layers on garden stock or bonsai that have grown too tall. Try to do it just before the spring growth spurt, as the sap is rising then. If layering flowering plants, remove any flowers and buds, as these will weaken the layer. Flowering plants will always expend energy trying to open flower buds if they are present. The drive to reproduce its kind is very strong! Make sure that any flowering layer does not flower for 12 months from the time the layer is done to preserve the energy for producing roots and leaves.
Search out and collect different types of moss to dress your trees, or use decorative pebbles on the soil surface after weeding, repotting or trimming. This way all your trees will reward you by looking their best. Remember that our annual show is coming up soon, so plan which trees you are going to exhibit, and give them the extra bit of attention they deserve to be ready for display. I would encourage all our members, whether beginners or more experienced, to plan to be involved in our show to help make it as successful as possible.